Reason

Good day! I have posted a number of tips and articles on different carpentry and construction job which is considered as a do-it-yourself job. These articles have been written under a certain employer whose name is withheld. He however, refuses to pay for these batches of articles written. He may have used these articles. However, I still have the right over these articles. I figure out that the articles will be a complete waste if I will not post it for everyone to learn from it. Hope you will have a nice time reading these tips and may learn from it.

Handyman Carlo

Preparation for Driveway Gravel

The driveway gravel has a kind of elegance about them that concrete or asphalt fails to show. Unlike gravel, which is much more flexible in that respect, these materials are difficult to correct if they were not laid properly to begin with.

Driveway gravel is not difficult to prepare and fill. In many ways it is less difficult than concrete, which is messy and difficult to achieve a great looking surface with. Asphalt is easier to lie, and easier to have looking good, but it's costly and it can be a bit messy too. Concrete and asphalt are not particularly easy to maintain either.

Concrete and asphalt do score well when it comes to cracking as a result of extreme frost and cold, but gravel scores even better. Heavy rains just drain with driveway gravel while concrete and asphalt need drainage considerations built in from the start.

Driveway gravel doesn’t have to be boring. Driveway gravel can be made from a variety of different colored stone of reds, blues and grays. One can even use different colored stone to form patterns on huge areas to provide a bit of contrast.

It is important that one will prepare properly for any driveway gravel one plans to create. As with other surface materials, a rule of thumb guide is the more heavy use of driveway is likely to get, the deeper and more robust the driveway should be.

In other words, if the driveway gravel will only have people walking on them, then one can get away with a relatively shallow depth. If a vehicle will travel on it, then it needs to be deep enough to cope with the additional wear and tear.

Driveway gravel should be prepared by having the drive marked out and dug down to a depth of about 150 millimeters, or six inches. At that point, drive a wooden fix into the dug out ground. If it is complicated or difficult to drive down further, then the base is solid and firm. If not, one may have to dig deeper. If one encounters any soft spots they may also need digging out.

One should lay a base before laying the gravel. Scalping stone is leftover quarry material and makes a distinctive inexpensive base. Order it during dry weather as rain will add considerably to the weight, which is what one will charged on. The scalping stone should be compacted by being vibrated in to a depth of at least 75 millimeters.

Driveway gravel can create a distinctive entry to one’s property. There are many types of gravel for a driveway, and each can add a different look to one’s home and landscaping.

Choosing the right type of gravel for a driveway can help one to create a beautiful and long lasting entry that one will be proud of.

No matter what type of stone one choose; make sure that the stones have an angular shape. These types of stones are commonly machine-crushed. Angular stones will lock together, diminishing the movement caused by the weight of passing vehicles.

Although they are quite attractive, rounded "river stones" will quickly slide out of place. Rounded or smooth stones will dramatically increase the maintenance requirements.

One size does not fit all, one needs several types of gravel for driveway construction that will last, make sure that the base layer of the driveway gravel should contain fist-sized stones, sometimes called #3 stones in the trade. These stones will construct a solid foundation for your driveway gravel. The second layer of the driveway gravel should contain golf ball-sized stones, also called #57 stone. The final layer of the gravel drive should contain stones a bit larger than a thumbnail. Speculate for any traffic bound or dense grade stones. This kind of gravel has stone dust mixed in and forms a hard, cement-like surface as it settles.

How to Create Faux brick walls

The faux brick walls are very much efficient and perfect for decoration and embellishment purposes. Sparse trailing vines add a little more intriguing and subtle sophisticated interest to a room that will draw a viewer's attention. Using colors to specifically and precisely coordinate with furnishings can also add to a theme. Painted cast shadows near the vines offer a dimensional, proportion and realistic appearance to the overall design. Research the type of vines and colors that one wants to use. One will want to have a drop cloth handy along with some bottles or cans of acrylic paint. The brushes that the one choose will depend on the size of the vines and leaves. A round brush, a flat brush and an angular brush will definitely work nicely for the faux brick walls.

A faux brick walls can be created in two different ways. One is by faux brick painting. It is a spontaneous, quick and easy weekend project. All one needs to do is to paint the wall a gray color, or any other color to look like mortar, and let it dry. Then, measure and mark the surface into 3” x 8” sized bricks with chalk. Mask the lines then press the tape down firmly. 
Afterwards, mix stucco with a little amount of latex brick base color before painting the faux brick walls. Spread the mixture over the surface so it’s ¼” thick. Take a sea sponge and randomly pat the surface to create a brick-like surface. Within fifteen minutes, remove the tape. After twelve hours, once the mixture is dry, dip a sponge into the brick colors one has chosen and dab onto the faux bricks. Try to blend different colors for a natural effect. Let dry and there one has the faux brick walls.
Another way to create a faux brick walls is by using faux brick veneer. They are manufactured to look like real and perceptible brick and can be found in the form of faux brick panels. It is around ¾” thick and is lightweight. They come in many various sizes, colors and textures. Since it is mass produced, it does not cost that much at all.
This sort of faux brick is installed and positioned like tiles to create a faux brick walls. It is best to apply glue to the backside of the faux brick paneling and placed on the flat surface. To fix the panel in place, screws are set in the corners. Continue to apply the other panels in the same way, connecting them together. Once one has finished applying the faux brick, caulk all the seams with a grout of a matching color. And allow it to dry.
There are lots of kinds and styles for the faux brick walls, the most popular faux brick walls are used Inca facing brick that usually cost $69.95, the classic red American brick that cost $65.96, and the old Chicago Inca brick that more or less costs $68.95. Some styles are, the gray American brick that usually cost $65.96, the red flat brick that cost $55.99, the silver Americana brick that generally cost $75.67, the wheat Americana brick that cost $65.96, the burnt sienna brick that commonly cost $65.95, the mesa beige brick that also cost $65.95, and the flamed gray flat brick that most of the time costs $59.99.
Faux brick walls seem to be costly but the beauty it shows will always be a good deal. It would be a satisfactory feeling looking at your faux brick walls.

Constructing a deck stair

Deck stair Construction is an important part of the deck. The stairs are the access ways to the deck and hence should be well built, keeping in mind the safety as well as the decor. The deck stair design should be such that it complements the deck design and enhances its look. While designing the deck stairs, keep in mind the requirements. The stairs can be made from solid wood, steel, virgin vinyl, recycled plastic, plastic resin mixed with wood fibers and aluminum or forged iron, depending upon the design. The easiest way to build is the solid wood stair.

           

During planning the deck stair construction, check the municipal zoning requirements about setbacks and no-build zones. Do not construct the deck or stairs such that they exceed the setback limit or are in a no-build zone.

The first thing to do in deck stair construction is to determine the Rise and Run of the Steps. Measure the height of the deck from the ground in inches. Divide it with 7.5, which is the approximate rise of each step. This will give the number of steps to be built. The run of each step should at least be 12" or more than that. The slope of the staircase should be around 40 degrees from the ground.

Second step in deck stair construction is to prepare a concrete footer, after all these calculations; mark the area where the staircase will touch the ground. Dig a 6" deep square area and remove all the grass and dirt from it. Fill 2" of it with pea gravel and level with a tamper. Fill the rest of it with fast-drying cement and level it using a trowel.

Next in deck stair construction is to prepare the stringer. The stringers are made from a 2x12 board. Use a framing square to mark the portions that have to be cut off from the stringer. Place the stringer so as to mark the rise of 7.5" and the run of 12" per step. Start marking the next step immediately after the previous one to get a zigzag pattern. Mark returns lines for top step, which will be attached to the deck, and bottom step that will be attached to the concrete base. Use a circular saw to cut and a hand saw for the finishing. Make another stringer using the first as a template.

Then place the stringer such that it touches the deck as well as the concrete footer. Check its placement using a level and a plumb. Attach it to the deck using angle brackets and 3" galvanized deck screws. Attach the two parallel stringers at the base by placing a 2x6 board between them and fixing it with 3" galvanized deck screws. Attach the board with concrete using masonry anchors.

Next in deck stair construction is cut and attach the Treads. Each tread is approximately made up of two lengths of 2x6 boards. Cut the treads keeping 1" extra length on each side of the stringer. Place one tread on the stringer and push it to touch the back end. Fix it there using two 3" deck screws per side maintaining the 1" margin on each side. Place the second tread board on the same step and fix it keeping ¼" gap between the two tread boards. Continue till all the steps are attached.

And lastly is to prepare the railings, cut two pieces out of 4x4 posts of 30" each. A little portion of the bottom-most tread notch has to be cut out from front sides to allow the post to be attached to the stringer closely. Fix the post with 4" deck screws to the stringer. Make sure that the posts are exactly vertical. Cut 2x4 railings of the length same as the distance between the lower post and the deck railing. Attach the railing to the post and the deck with 3" deck screws, keeping it parallel to the slope of the stairs. Connect a baluster at each step keeping not more than 6" distance between each.

Deck stair construction is just an easy task. One can always finish a job well done in deck stair construction if you just follow the given steps. The materials in deck stair construction are available in every local hardware. Some of these materials for deck stair construction can even be ordered on line. However, if you have doubts in your ability to do a deck stair construction, there are always professional that are expert in deck stair construction.

Drop ceiling installation

Drop ceiling installation it requires patience. If one plans to install a drop ceiling it is critical to keep the entire grid work as even as possible.
The correct procedures in Drop Ceiling installation, is to first, drop ceiling Installation requires patience at the beginning because it is important that all of the rows of framework be level and even. The spacing of the framework is critical for the tiles to fit properly into place. A good job looks nice and lasts for years. An inferior job reminds one that every time they see it of its poor quality. Since there are few ways to hide the mistakes when installing a drop ceiling, take time and do it right. By following a few rules, the job should be done in a few hours and look great, too.

Next in drop ceiling installation is to measure the length and width of the room. Because one will be buying the framework for the ceiling tiles to rest in and the tiles themselves, one needs to know how much material is needed. Depending on the size of the tiles, one will need enough long rails to cross the room once for each row of tiles plus one more for the final run. The same is true for the cross tracks. The rows of the framing start on the wall and end on the opposite wall. Get tracks designed for the walls and those for the rest of the room in the proper quantity. Buy a few more tiles than the size of the room requires allowing for cutting and potential waste. One will also need the eyelets for attaching the suspension wires to the old ceiling and wire.
In drop ceiling installation one should start by attaching the track to the walls all of the way around the room. This process in drop ceiling installation is started by measuring the amount that the ceiling is to be dropped and marking a level line around the perimeter of the room. Use this line for a guide as one attaches these tracks permanently to the walls. The next step in drop ceiling installation is to measure out the proper spacing for the grid work and install the eyelets that will hold the suspension wires into the old ceiling. The next step in drop ceiling installation is to thread the wire through each eyelet and let enough wire hang free to reach the level of the new ceiling plus several inches to allow you to tie off the grid as it is put into place.
Next is to run the grid work. Row by row, run the long tracks across the room and secure each section with enough wires to make it solid. Install the cross grid next following the same routine until the entire grid is in place. One should have tile sized openings throughout the room with partial tile sized openings along the walls and in the corners.
Install lighting where it is necessary. Most of the time existing wiring for the previous lighting in the room can be utilized for installing the new lighting fixtures to go above the drop ceiling. Run the wires to the fixtures and set the fixture into the grid. If it does not have its own opaque lens, install a tile sized lens beneath it in the grid opening. Test the lights before continuing the drop ceiling installation.
Another job in drop ceiling installation is one should start in the middle of the room and put the tiles into place. By starting in the center of the room, one will have installed all of the whole tiles before one has to begin making the cuts near the walls. Carefully measure the size of the tiles needing cut and cut them to fit the opening. Make sure that all of the tiles are sitting properly in place. When the last tile is fitted, the drop ceiling installation job is completed.

Driveway gravel types

Driveways made from gravel are one of the most popular choices for driveways and hard landscaping because it is cheap, easy to lay, low maintenance, and looks good particularly in country settings or in towns where it matches the predominant stone and brick coloring of the area. There is an immense choice of size, color and texture, so it is a good choice for resurfacing.

Driveway gravel types can create a distinctive entry to ones property. There are various of gravel driveway types, and each can add a different look to ones home and landscaping. By choosing the right type of gravel for a driveway can help one to create a beautiful and long lasting entry that one will be proud of.

Driveway gravel types are made up of crushed stone or rounded rocks. They are not always the most attractive driveway gravel types; but are often the most affordable driveway gravel types. These driveway gravel types are usually found in rural settings or areas where the length is prohibitive for other options. This kind of driveway is relatively easy to maintain and are more resistant to damage and weathering than solid surface alternatives. There are a few multifarious materials to choose from when considering a gravel driveway.

No matter what driveway gravel types of stone one chose, make sure that the stones have an angular shape. These types of stones are usually and machine – crushed ones. The angular stones will lock together, reducing the movement caused by the weight of passing vehicles. Although, they are quite attractive, the rounded river stones will immediately slide out of place. The rounded or smooth stones will dramatically increase the maintenance requirements.

The crunch of gravel under a car's wheels is very satisfying and can also act as a defensive measure, alerting one to uninvited guests. On the downside though, one cannot use these driveway gravel types on a site that has any gradient to speak of, it needs regular top-up resurfacing and can be tricky to keep in place.

There are many driveway gravel types; one of them is the pea gravel, which is the mostly inexpensive stone for use in driveways. It is a very good-looking smaller stone, and the despicable will be a mixture of several sizes and finishes. More valuable or expensive pea gravel is not as sharp, more consistent in size, and a much richer color. With its smaller size, pea gravel is much better for use in smaller driveways, as longer lengths take considerable amounts to cover properly and that takes away any cost savings due to the increased amount required.

Another driveway gravel types is the river stone, which is also another type of material for driveways, and the color and texture of the stone is similar to pea gravel in attractiveness. The substantial rounded stones easily slide out of place, however, and may increase maintenance needs with this driveway gravel type. These are hard to walk on, and car tires easily disseminate the stones. This causes the driveway gravel types to suddenly flare out away from its defined limitations or boundaries and require re-grading to make it look presentable again.

The most usual and common stones for the gravel driveway types are self-binding gravel. It is ideal for longer areas; the stone is made up of many different sized pieces that interlock tightly together with time and the pressure of vehicles driving over it repeatedly. This results in a hard surface more like concrete than disconnected or loose stone. An advantage to self-binding is that it is very often easy to cover with a new layer periodically to make it stronger, more substantial and more attractive while keeping the price manageable.

Building a Gravel Driveway

A gravel driveway is known for being affordable and durable. One can have this driveway in no time by just following the correct procedures.

The first step in building a gravel driveway, path or patio base is to find out how firm the ground is underfoot. This project is written mainly for a drive or path, but the sub base preparation is the same for a patio.

Next in building a gravel driveway is from the surface of the proposed drive, one will have approximately 200mm of material forming the driveway, so as an exploratory measure dig down 200mm for an area of about a square meter. Drive the peg in here and if it is too hard to do after 150mm or 6 inches, then the ground is firm enough for the driveway. One can now excavate out the full area of the drive.

Excavation in building a gravel driway can be done by hand, or one can even hire a digger from a local tool hire store. The digger is quite expensive, one will usually get a free driving lesson from the company when they deliver it but check this at the time of hiring, but by hiring diggers, it can save days, so it is a little bit of practical. One will probably need to hire a skip also.

If while digging in building a gravel driveway you will find areas which seem softer than the rest, dig these out. The base one in building a gravel driveway layer is flexible and will sink into soft areas of soil making unwanted dips in the drive. Try and find a base in building a gravel driveway, which is solid throughout the entire area. Admittedly this base structure in building a gravel driveway can be topped up from time to time, but a little time and effort spent now can save a great deal later on. This does not apply to patio bases where one will not be able to get to the sub base later so it is vital that one will fill all soft spots at this stage. It is just as well to lay weed fabric before filling the sub base. Weeds can fight their way through the most compact of materials and a few pounds spent at this stage will save so much trouble later on.

In building a gravel driveway the stone that are used for the base is called the scalping stone. This is what is left when any particular quarry stone has been used for the purposes that it was excavated for. It is one of the cheaper forms of base and much easier to lay and level than the old traditional broken brick hardcore.

One has a choice at this stage in building a gravel driveway. One should be able to dig the side of the drive or path down vertically and when the base is in it will obviously keep the soil or lawn in place as shown in the top image. The shingle, or the gravel, when laid on top, is very much likely to spread when walked and driven on and one may wish to contain this. In building a gravel driveway, if one has a lawn either any side of the drive or path, stray shingle cannot only damage the mower, but the mower can easily throw stones out. This can be very much speculative and dangerous.

Remember, in building a gravel driveway, when the scalping is laid, add the shingle, gravel or patio slabs. There are several kinds and varieties of shingle and gravel and this is purely a matter of personal taste, mood and styles.

By having the proper procedures, one can have a perfect gravel driveway that everybody will surely love. Also, building a gravel driveway is easy and less costly.